PROBLEM: Unit Will Not Run
* Is fuse
blown or circuit breaker tripped?
* Is cord securely plugged in? Is outlet controlled by wall switch and
turned off? Check outlet with lamp or
small appliance.
* Is control ON or is it set to OFF position?
* Has there been a power failure? Keep door/lid closed.
PROBLEM: Not
Cold Enough - Ice Cream Soft
* Is control
set properly? See instructions for
recommended temperature/air control settings and proper placement of
foods. ALLOW 24 HOURS FOR TEMPERATURE
TO STABILIZE BEFORE MAKING CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS
* Is condenser free of dust, lint or other
obstructions?
* Is proper air space allowed for back
condenser models?
* Are doors closed securely with good gasket
seal?
* Does light stay on with door closed? Poor door seal.
PROBLEM: Water
in the Defrost Drain Pan/Crispers
* Is drain
pan less than half full? This is
normal. In hot, humid weather the pan
may even be half full.
* Do crisper bottoms have a NORMAL small amount
of water to provide high humidity needed by leafy vegetables? If crispers have too much water, wash and
dry food before storing. Make sure unit
is cold enough. Foods stored too long
can decay, creating moisture.
PROBLEM:
Moisture Collects on Outside of Cabinet/Lid
* Is humidity
high? If unit has a Power Saving
control turn it on to reduce sweating.
* Is unit located in hot, humid area (near a
heater, clothes dryer, and range or in a sunny area?
* Is cabinet level? Is door/lid gasket sealing properly?
PROBLEM:
Rattling or Unfamiliar Sounds
* Is there
anything on top, behind, underneath, or inside which vibrates or rattles when
the compressor runs?
* Are sounds normal for new features? Air flow from fans, clicking of defrost timer,
trickling defrost water, water filling icemaker, ice dropping into storage bin.
* Is cabinet level and floor supported to
hold weight of unit?
* Do water lines or condenser coils touch
wall or cabinet?
PROBLEM: Ice
Maker Isn't Working
Has unit had
time to become thoroughly cold? This
may take overnight in a new installation.
Is lever in
the ON position?
Is water
supply hooked up and water valve turned on?
PROBLEM: Uses
too Much Energy/Runs too Often
* Is control
set too cold? Use firmness of ice cream
and coldness of milk as guides for good temperature in a
refrigerator/freezer. Try next warmer
control setting.
* Is condenser clean?
* Is there adequate air circulation allowed
around the unit?
* Are doors opened often and held open for
long periods?
* Is unit level with doors/lids closing and
sealing properly?
* Does freezer need defrosting? On manual defrost units frequent defrosting
is required to keep energy usage low.
* Is refrigerator or freezer a new
model? New higher efficiency units have
smaller more efficient compressors, which run frequently but use less energy
than older designs.
* Is the new unit a large no-frost icemaker
model while previous unit was smaller, manual defrost?
* Is the old unit still in use so the new unit
is added energy load?
* Is room temperature near 100 F? Unit may run continuously.
* Does freezer have inside fan? It runs all the time unless it is
defrosting.
PROBLEM: Taste and Odor in Food and Ice Cubes
* Is unit a
no frost model where forced air fan can easily transfer taste and odor? Clean refrigerator/freezer regularly.
* Are foods covered tightly to avoid
evaporation and odor transfers?
* Are foods properly packaged and sealed for
freezer storage?
* Is icemaker newly installed? See instructions, for handling first ice
batches, cleaning bin and storage of ice.
PROBLEM: Oven Won't Operate
* Is house
fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped?
* Is cord plugged in using a grounded
separate circuit?
* Are controls properly set? Is door securely latched? Has START button been pushed?
* Does oven have ON/OFF switch which is set
to OFF? See instructions.
* Is oven in HOLD after defrost or set for
delay cooking?
PROBLEM: Oven Cooks Too Fast, Too Slowly, Unevenly
* Is the correct
cook power setting used?
* Are food quantity and temperature (room,
refrigerator or freezer) the same as listed in the cookbook?
* Is it a food (meat, potato) that calls for
undercooking then standing time while covered or wrapped to continue cooking?
* Is vent on top of oven covered or
blocked? Uncover.
* Was food stirred or turned as directed in
recipe?
* Was food in metal utensil or
covered/wrapped in foil? See
instructions.
PROBLEM: Arcing
* Was a metal
tie or 'twisty" left on food package?
Always remove metal
Closures before defrosting or cooking
food.
* Does dish have metal trim, pattern or
circular band? Never use dishes, which
are not microwave safe.
* Is the utensil metal or was too much foil
used in comparison to food quantity? Some
foil can be used, but food quantity must be greater than metal.
* Did metal (foil shield or frozen dinner
tray) touch sidewall of oven?
* Place in center of oven, away from walls
to prevent arcing.
PROBLEM: Probe Does Not Work Properly
* Is probe plugged
securely into side of oven?
* Is sensing end of probe (first 1/3)
located in center of food or beverage (not touching walls or utensils)?
* Is standing time allowed to finish cooking
and reach set temperature?
* Is probe placed in center of largest meat
muscle, not touching bone or fat?
* Are controls (Cook Temp, Cook Power) set
properly for food?
PROBLEM: Television Interference When Oven Operates
* Is oven
plugged into a proper outlet on a separate circuit, and on same circuit with
television? Some interference is normal
when oven is operating (much like that caused by CB radios, garage door
operators, electric shavers and mixers)
* Is home in area remote from television
station or one where television
* Reception is weak? Interference from all sources is most
noticeable in weak reception areas.
PROBLEM: General Cooking Questions
* Can popcorn
be cooked in the oven? Only if an
approved utensil (no paper bags) is used EXACTLY as directed.
* Can metal utensils (frozen dinner trays) be
used in the oven? Some metal utensils
and foil may be used when cookbook and use instructions are followed exactly.
* Can eggs be hard cooked (boiled) in the
microwave oven? NO. Eggs can build up steam and burst while
cooking. Cook on range surface unit
only.
* Why do foods need to be stirred and
turned? As with conventional cooking
some foods will cook faster and more evenly when stirred or turned.
* Why aren't recipes given for all
foods? In general, if a food is not
shown in cookbook it does not cook well in a microwave oven. Some foods require dry heat for crispness
(pizza) or need the very slow dry cooking (souffl6, meringue, angel food cake)
of the conventional oven.
* Do foods retain microwave energy? NO.
Microwave energy is not stored nor held by food or the microwave oven
cavity.
PROBLEM: Range Will Not Operate
* Is range
plugged into an operating outlet (or wired into a live circuit)?
With
proper voltage?
* Are fuses blown or circuit breakers
tripped? Check main fuse or breaker box
* Is the Oven Selector Knob turned to a
setting (BAKE or BROIL, not TIMED)?
Which operates immediately?
* Is the Oven Temperature Control Knob at a
temperature setting?
* Are surface units plugged in all the
way? Remove and plug in firmly
* Do the control knobs turn? PUSH IN and turn knobs
PROBLEM: Surface Unit Control Knobs Won't Turn
* Is control
knob PUSHED IN before turning? For
safety reasons, control knobs must be pushed in, and then turned on.
* Has knob been removed for cleaning and
spring not replaced?
PROBLEM: Food Boils at Low Surface Unit Setting
* Is control knob set at last mark in the
LOW setting area? Turn knob past
PROBLEM: Self-Cleaning Oven Cycle Will Not Operate
* Are Oven
Selector and Oven Temperature Control Knobs set to CLEAN?
* Does the Start Time Knob show the correct
time of day?
* Is Stop Time Knob set ahead to a time (2
to 4 hours) for cleaning cycle to stop?
* Is door locked (Clean Light will
glow)? Check Oven Selector setting (or
door latch for complete locking)
* Does oven door have a window with a shield? Raise window shield before setting controls
PROBLEM: Continuous-Cleaning Oven Looks Soiled
* Is oven
chiefly used for broiling? For the oven
to maintain a
Presentably clean appearance; baking at
temperatures around 400 F must be alternated with broiling
* Is oven presentably clean excepting for
door areas? For safety reasons, the
door area is designed to be cooler than oven walls. Some hand cleaning may be necessary for heavy spatters on door
and near the oven front
* Is foil used on oven bottom? Spillovers containing sugars and starches
are difficult to remove from oven bottom.
Always use foil liner as instructed.
* CAUTION never uses commercial oven
cleaners in self-cleaning or continuous cleaning ovens to prevent damage to
oven finish and the development of smoke and fumes during high heat cycles.
PROBLEM: Range
Does Not Cook as Expected
* Is range level?
* Are
recommended shiny, aluminum pans (of correct size for recipe) used for Baking?
* Has 1 1/2 to 2
inches been allowed on all sides of pans for good oven air Circulation?
near top or
bottom heating elements?
* Is baking done on rack placed so food is
in center of oven rather than too near top or bottom heating elements?
* Is oven selector set for BAKE (not
PRE-HF.AT or BROIL)?
* Is oven vent blocked, creating poor air circulation and too much moisture? Is recipe a tested one from a reliable cookbook?
* Do cooking utensils have smooth flat
bottoms?
* Do cooking utensils fit the surface unit being used?
* Is utensil a canner, which is oversized
without a flat bottom (warped, concave, convex or made with raised
circles)? DO NOT USE ON RANGE
* Has correct heat setting for type of food
been selected?
ROOM AIR CONDITIONER or
DEHUMIDIFIER
PROBLEM: Unit Won't Run
* Is cord
plugged in properly?
* Is fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped?
* Has power failed or is voltage to house
too low? Check with local utility.
* Is control at OFF setting? Set for operating position
* Is dehumidifier humidistat control set toward OFF rather than Driest or is water pan full?
PROBLEM: Blows Fuses/Trips Breakers
* Are correct
outlet, wire size, circuit breaker or time delay fuse used?
* Is unit plugged into extension cord? DO NOT USE
* Is a separate branch circuit used for air conditioner? A separate circuit is required for all models except 115-volt models rated less than 7.6 amperes on serial plate
* Was air conditioner turned off and
restarted immediately? Wait at least
two minutes after turning off before restarting
PROBLEM: Air Conditioner Not Cooling/Turns On and Off
Is unit
properly sized for area being cooled? Too small runs all the time, poor
cooling, ices up. Too large: room feels cold & clammy, doesn't remove enough
moisture
Is filter clean
and all panels, seals in place?
Is the
inside (evaporator) and outside (condenser) coils clean?
Is there
excessive room moisture (from cooking, showers, laundry)?
Are
controls set properly for adequate cooling?
Set fan to higher speed.
Set
thermostat colder
Is unit set
for "Energy Saving"? See
instructions for proper settings Is anything blocking front of air conditioner?
Are doors
open to areas other than the room being cooled?
PROBLEM:
Unfamiliar Sounds/Noisy Air Conditioner
* Is air conditioner
cooling properly with these NORMAL-operating sounds?
* Droplets of water hitting condenser help
cool it but cause 'pinging" or "clicking" sounds
* Air movement from fan, loudest at
high-speed setting.
* Clicks, as thermostat cycles
* Is there a vibrating or rattling
sound? Check installation, window
design and house construction for looseness - three usual causes of vibration
* Is fan on highest speed? Try a lower setting for less air
movement/fan sound
* Is control set for continuous, (rather
than automatic) fan to reduce frequent stopping/starting sounds?
PROBLEM: Dehumidifier Ices Up
* Is room humidity too low
(below 50%) for proper operation?
* Is control set too low (below 65 F)
causing continuous running of unit?
* Is room temperature low? Unit will ice when operated below 65 F
PROBLEM: Dehumidifier Leaves Water on Floor
* Is unit level?
* Is pan properly positioned on rails?
* Is the pan overflowing? Empty frequently when humidity is high
Automatic Dishwasher
PROBLEM: Will
Not Start/Timer Does Not Advance
* Is fuse
blown or circuit breaker tripped?
* Is door completely closed and latch
securely locked?
* On portable models, is power cord plugged
in and water turned on?
* Is control at the beginning (fill area) of
cycle? Dishwasher may have been stopped
before completing previous cycle
* Is a cycle with HI TEMP WASHING used? Timer delays cycle until water heats to 145
F
PROBLEM: Dish
Load Not Clean
* Is water at
least 140 F in dishwasher?
* Are racks loaded properly so that spray
arms turn freely and large items do not block water to door dispensers and
baskets?
* Is enough detergent used for water
hardness and soil level?
* Is detergent fresh and dry? Sand-like particles on glasses and upper
rack items indicate old detergent
* Has filter screen and removable pump guard
been cleaned?
* Is water level too low? Water should be even with or slightly above
heating element (black circular rod) in bottom of dishwasher
PROBLEM: Load Not Dry
* Is water at
least 140 F in dishwasher?
* Is the Heat Dry option selected? Air Dry takes longer (several hours to
overnight) to dry a load
* Is water left in dishwasher after a
cycle? Check for kinked drain hose
* Is rinse aid used (liquid or solid)? Rinse aid reduces surface tension of the
water, giving better rinsing/water draining from dishes for faster drying.
PROBLEM: Leaking
* Is a
detergent other than automatic dishwasher detergent being used? NEVER use laundry or liquid detergents.
* Does load contain large amounts of foamy
food soils (eggs, milk)? Empty milk
glasses, scrape dishes before loading
* Was an item added to dishwasher during
cycle? Opening and closing door quickly
can result in water "surge' or splashing, leaving water on floor
* Has bottom rack been removed? Rack in backwards (bumpers must be in front)
or running dishwasher without rack can cause leaks
* Is a large item jammed against water
inlet, creating a leak?
PROBLEM: Sound Level
Is the
sound related to normal operation (water filling, spraying, draining motor pump
timer, clicks) of the dishwasher? Is
the sound related to knocking, banging, and bumping of dish load items? See instructions for proper loading and
securing of items, especially glassware and light pans, lids
PROBLEM: Frost Build-up on Inside/Lid (Manual Defrost
Models)
* Is freezer
level and door or lid sealing properly?
* Is humidity high, causing ice build up?
* Is frost build up localized? On upright freezers frost forms first on the
top shelves and is heaviest there.
* Does freezer have 1/2 inch or thicker
frost build up? Defrosting is required.
PROBLEM: Outside of Chest Freezer Feels Warm or Hot
Has freezer
just been started? It is normal for the
outside walls to feel very warm when freezer is first started. Warm walls during operation indicate normal
cooling for the freezer.
PROBLEM: Power Failure
Will power
be off for less than 24 hours? If
freezer is full and lid/door is kept closed little thawing will occur.
PROBLEM: Dryer Won't Run
* Are fuses
blown or circuit breakers tripped?
* Is cord plugged in?
* Is door completely closed?
* Are controls set to a drying position?
* Has start button been pushed?
PROBLEM: Dryer Runs but Won't Heat
* Are fuses
circuit breakers working properly? An
electric dryer (220/240 volt) has two fuses or circuit breakers in main switch
box; both must work.
* Is gas turned on at both the main gas line
in the home and the gas valve?
Behind the dryer toe panel?
* Is dryer control set for AIR only rather
than HEAT cycle?
PROBLEM: Loads Not Drying Properly
* Is lint
screen full? Check and clean before
drying each load.
* Is automatic dryness control set
properly? See instructions
* Is Timed Dry control set for at least 15
minutes? If not, dryer may be in cool
down with only a short heat cycle.
* Is a very small load being dried? Use Timed Dry cycle and add dry, lint free
towels to help the small load tumble.
* Is exhaust duct clean and free of
blockage?
* Is dryer overloaded or are mixed weight
fabrics (light and heavy) being dried in same load?
PROBLEM: Drying Time Seems Too Long
* Is load
rinsed in cold water? Cold rinses save energy
but leave loads a little wetter and colder.
The slightly longer drying time uses significantly less energy than it
takes to heat water for warm rinse.
* Does load consist of modern fabrics
(synthetic or permanent press), which require more drying time at lower heat
settings to protect the fabrics?
* These fabric cycles also have a 10 min.
cool down (no heat) to help prevent wrinkling (longer cycle time, but little
extra energy used)
* Did wash cycle for load have a low speed
spin? Slow spins help prevent wrinkling
of modern fabrics, but leave more water in the load
* Is the dryer large capacity? Dry only one washer load at a time. Large loads have longer drying times
* Is the dryer installed in an unheated
basement, garage or utility room?
* Dryers in unheated areas have longer
drying cycles than those installed in heated areas.
* Is electric dryer operating on 110/120 or
208 volts? 120-volt compact dryer or
other dryers installed at lower than 220/240 volts will have long drying times
* Is dryer installed properly, using correct
ducting? (Length, material, turns)
PROBLEM: Timer Stops and Starts
Is dryer on
automatic Custom Dry setting where control does not begin to
Move until
the load is partially dry?
PROBLEM: Vibrates
in Spin/Noisy Operation
* Are
Styrofoam shipping blocks under tub removed?
* Is washer level and installed on a sturdy
floor?
* Is load properly balanced? Stop washer and rearrange load.
* Is noise at start of wash or rinse
period? This sound is normal gear
shifting.
* Are pins or nails caught in holes of
basket, causing a whistling sound?
PROBLEM: Washer Won't Run or Won't Spin
* Is fuse
blown or circuit breaker tripped?
* Is cord plugged in?
* Is control set to "ON" position
and knob pulled out?
* Is cycle in cool down or pause
position? Some cycles have normal
pauses and restart in about two minutes.
* Is lid closed? Washer will not spin with lid open.
PROBLEM: Washer Won't Fill/Buzzes/Fills Then Drains